It’s been another rough week here at Graham HQ, which means another noticeable lack of bottles opened. The wine sample department doth spilleth over, now extending from cupboard to a stack of boxes in the kitchen. Anyway, this is the correct way to ease back into it – the strong new release Tapanappa Foggy Hill Pinot Noir 2021

As ever, I can’t get enough of Brian Croser’s stats, and here they point out that this ’21 comes from a slightly cooler vintage (1330 HDD vs 1331 HDD). More HDD measurements! Every vineyard! GIVE US THE STATS. Seriously, there is a story to be told about every great wine – and it starts with numbers. Speaking of, this Pinot spends 10 months in 1/3rd new oak. Final wine TA 5.9g/L, pH 3.53.

A great balance between bright ruby and structure here, which is important for the Fleurieu Pinot (that previously has looked dry reddish). There is a layer of oak sweetness on the nose, but you don’t taste it. Important. Lucid red fruit is the star here – bright and effortless. On the palate, you can see the lower alcohol, with more energy, some lovely strawberry fruit that feels like it’s still unfurling – tight buttoned. Delicacy, a bit uptight, good tannic grip too. A pleasure to be had both now, as a lightly framed yet persistent and serious style, with more to come next year. I like it, even if it took a while to open out.

Best drinking: probably next year. 18/20, 93/100. 12.5%, $55. Tapanappa website. Would I buy it? Definitely worth a bottle.