From what is technically the most immediate range of wines for Moorilla, although this Moorilla Estate Praxis Pinot Noir 2019 could probably do with more time in bottle.

From the St Matthias Vineyard which is on the Tamar at the other end of Tassie to the Moorilla winery. Very light ruby, the intentions are obvious straight up – we’re not playing around, this is real Pinot. Tomato bush, a bit of whole bunch spice, then a mid-weight core of raspberry fruit, before the finish all tightens up with lingering, lightly ferrous tannins. Fascinating to see how ambitious even ‘drink sooner’ Pinot has become, and I’m all for it. This is a little drying on the finish, but I think the fruit is up to the task. Impressive, if not ‘easy’, Tassie Pinot.

Best drinking: a year wouldn’t go astray. Or a decent decant. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13%, $33. Moorilla website. Would I buy it? Worth a glass, probably two or three.