Not enough serious Australian rosé passes the Australian Wine Review bench. This Rogers & Rufus Rosé 2021 is an exception.

From the Yalumba/Sam Smith stable and based on Barossa Grenache rosé in a serious, smartly textured mode. Strawberry cream and rosewater, with a palate of rounded edges to balance out the trim acidity and lovely pink fruit. A little Cotes du Provence vibe in this wine, if a little sunnier. Masterful winemaking to give softness and vitality. Good.

Best drinking: now. 17.7/20, 92/100. 11.5%, $25. Winery website. Would I buy it? I’ll happily share a bottle.