This Bugalugs by Tim Smith Barossa Shiraz 2021 nails the $28 Barossan red brief. Plush, driven by silken ripe, chocolate nibbed, sweet-fruited flavour that fills your mouth with rounded textures. It falls away beyond that first oak-covered purple fruit ride, but it’s pleasure all the way til you get there. Best drinking: over the next five years. 17/20, 90/100. 14.2%, $28. Tim Smith Wines website. Would I buy it? A glass or so.