This McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate Classic Tawny NV is the five-year-old, entry-level wine  the Hanwood Tawny range, and it’s a relative bargain. Rich and sweet and mouthfillin in that rich tawny way. Still some red in the colour, but lusciousness is the order of the day, all dark caramel richness and expansive sweet oak and sugar. It’s not wildly complex, but gee the intensity of flavour is impressive – it’s a veritable expanse of caramel flavour going on there. Good stuff.

Best drinking: whenever. 17/20, 90/100. 18.5%, $20. McWilliams website. Would I buy it? A half glass after dinner thanks.