This Oakridgee Willowlake Chardonnay 2020 is easily my favourite wine of the 2020 Oakridge Chardonnay lineup, and feels so much grander (and riper) than the rest. White peach, fig, grilled nuts. Manages to be ripe enough but contained – this has flesh and vibrancy in equal measures. There is an X factor too – that ‘essence of Chardonnay’ generosity perfection. White peach, funk, nutty complexity, freshness and width. Delicious.

Best drinking: already good and will live for at least five years. 18.7/20, 95/100. 13.2%, $45. Oakridge website. Would I buy it? Shit yes