I feel like it’s a perpetual statement, but Dom Torzi knows how to make a textural red. This Torzi Matthews 1920 Single Vineyard Angaston Village Shiraz 2021 is another case in point.

Drawn from a vineyard in Angaston Village planted in 1920 (hence the name), this has 25% whole bunches and spends 14 months in 25% new oak. Bottled with a serious cork too. There is an old school Barossa soft yet powerful charm in this wine. Dark purple velvet red, the nose is liquered and densely packed, which leads to a palate that is thick with chocolate bullets and dark red fruit palate, yet rounded at the edges. Compared to the even more concentrated Frost Dodger, this feels like an easy smile with a firm handshake. Soft and pastilled, luscious and dark, but with this inky inky core. It’s a smidgen too rich for bottle-emptying, but lovely generous mouthfilling style in a proudly Barossan form.

Best drinking: good now and probably even better in, say, eight years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 14.5%, $80. Torzi Matthews website. Would I buy it? I’d take the Frost Dodger first, but this would be worth a few glasses.