Old Plains is part of Dom Torzi’s stable of brands, in this case celebrating the old vines of the Adelaide Plains. The ‘Plains’ are very much a forgotten region in modern times, with the market gardens and small plots swallowed up by suburbia and industrial estates. Dom champions some of the remaining vineyards, and the wines are always full of flavour – you can almost taste that warm Adelaide sunshine.

You can just about see the flavour in this Old Plains Terreno Grenache 2021 too. Basket pressed and matured for 18 months in barrel, and it feels so open and juicy. The ripe fruit hits in a wave – stewed raspberries. While the palate is heavy with glycerol ripeness it never tips into heaviness. It’s just a round, plump and easy sort of red. Not complex, but a bear hug of raspberried generosity. Good.

Best drinking: five to eight years worth of drinking ahead. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.5%, $40. Old Plains website. Would I buy it? A glass or so.