I struggled with the locked-up tight Hunter’s Semillon from Gundog this year, but Gundog Estate’s The Chase Semillon 2022 is much more balanced. It’s still one firm, lean, backward-looking Hunter Semillon, but it’s shaped more for drinking this decade. Green apple fruit (classically so) and grapefruit and lemon with a typically long finish. The future is going to be kind.

Best drinking: Four years is a good time to start. 18/20, 93/100+. 11%, $40. Gundog Estate website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle