This is the laste of the ‘not Soave’ (cough) from Anselmi I’ve covered in recent months, and this is one of the most premium releases in the range. Like the rest of the 21s, the Anselmi Capitel Foscarino 2021 is a textural beast, a ripe, slightly phenolic, expression of what Gargenega can do. Lemon, yellow apples, lemon and barley sugar. Expressive and chunky with this apple pie density to it as well. It’s just a smidgen warm, and you can’t miss the phenolic pucker, but it just makes this more impactful.

Best drinking: over the next five. No hurry. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $60. Single Vineyard Sellers (Australian importer). Would I buy it? Worth a glass.