Rob Diletti is convinced that his site can make great Pinot Noir. This A & W Pinot Noir 2021 shows how far he has come. Lots happening in this Porongurup Pinot Noir – undergrowth, mint, cranberry, whole bunches layered on top of the ripe cranberry stewed red fruit. Lots to unpack! It’s just a little bit firm – the mint and bunchy greenery do obscure the fruit a smidgen. But gee this is interesting and complex if just a little abrupt. Well done.

Best drinking: over the next five years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $52. Castle Rock Estate website. Would I buy it? A glass or so at least.