$96 can either by you half a bottle of Blain-Gaignard Chevalier-Montrachet Caillerts 1er Cru or this Oakridge 864 Funder & Diamond Chardonnay 2020.

I’ll take 2 bottles of the Oakridge + change thanks very much (especially sealed with a screwcap).

Sure, that’s a tired comparison, but context is important. The power, weight, complexity and flavour depth of this top-tier Oakridge Chardonnay is Grand Cru-level stuff (and without the random oxidation). Even in a warm, unsettled year like 2020 this is a remarkable Chardonnay.

Dave Bicknell drinks plenty of Burgundy too, so he’ll know the score. And this Oakridge Chardonnay has a bit of Burgundian milk bottle funk too, along with custard, white flowers, marzipan and an array of citrus and such. Inviting nose. Underneath, the palate is tangy with its ultra-fresh mode, yet it’s not sharp, just delightful in its freshness/power balance. So compact on the palate – all the elements are on display, between sexy oak, finessed winemaking, perfectly ripe fruit. Grand Cru Burgundy level fruit intensity too.

A super wine.

Best drinking: I like it now. Will live for a few years for a start. 18.7/20, 95/100. 13.5%, $96. Oakridge website. Would I buy it? For a grand night out this is a no-brainer.