Young Semillon doesn’t have to be hard going. This Hungerford Hill Classic Semillon 2022 delivers much of the freshness and crunch without being fiercely acidic. It’s not wildly intense, but on the money for a balance between green apple lemon fruit and just enough acidity. Good, well-priced summer drinking with proper style.

Best drinking: now, but it’s going to live in Hunter Sem style. 17.5/20, 91/100. 11%, $27. Hungerford Hill website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle.