This Chapel Hill The MV Shiraz 2021 is exactly what most McLaren Vale Shiraz drinkers want. A huge expanse of purple fruit, in a silken wave of chunky ripeness. Gleefully seamless in an unapologetically bold and full mode, with some drying tannins to top the package. It’s hardly elegant, but that’s the point – this is just a really good, well-priced, well-powered McLaren Vale red wine.

Best drinking: now to ten years (easy). 18/20, 93/100. 14.5%, $30. Chapel Hill website. Would I buy it? It’s probably not my preferred drink, but man, I admire how ‘right wine, right price’ this is. I’d go a few glasses, but others will empty the bottle (and many more).