I don’t think everyone here on Australian Wine Review is going to see this Pewsey Vale 1961 Block Riesling 2021 in the same light, but to me, it tastes like a masterpiece. A prime example of what is good and great about Eden Valley dry Riesling, with a wonderful terroir story as well.

As the name suggests, this comes from the original 1961 planted (on contours) vines on the Pewsey Vale property. If you’ve not been up there before, this is tough country – rocky and dry, with vines that look spindly given their age. Tough country, turning out diamonds. Indeed, so often with Eden Valley Riesling you want to catch it within 12 months of harvest, or it starts shutting down. The primary fruit exuberance dies down a bit, and you’re better off sticking it in the cellar and coming back in 2-4 years later.

But this Pewsey Vale 1961 Block Riesling 2021? It’s still powering on, unshakeable in its pulsating vitality. That has to go down to the alternate handling, with a wild ferment and an extended time (for Pewsey Riesling) on lees. It’s still tight, and taut with lime and understated slate and lemon. All correct. The palate is where the fireworks come, with a length that is undeniable – it just keeps going, keeps lobbing up that lime-juicy stony intensity. You can see the bottle age creeping in, but that palate power is fighting it off.

My score might look low when it gets to prime-aged territory in a few year’s time. Super stuff.

Best drinking: right now, or wait a few years and drink FOREVER. 18.7/20, 95/100. 12%, $35. Pewsey Vale website. Would I buy it? In a heartbeat.