Between the excellent Lanson duo, this Pommery Louise and another bottle of the excellent Roger Coulon from the cellar, there has been a pleasing amount of fancy Champagne at Graham HQ in the last month or so that I actually got to drink. That’s an important distinction because great wines are often tasted in small glasses at masterclasses/trade events rather than drinking with friends and fam.

Anyway, this Cuvée Louise is the most ambitiously priced of the lot. All Grand Cru fruit and in lovely packaging it looks the part. Certainly smells like late disgorged Champagne, with a mix of white flowers, gentle citrus and plenty marzipan and white flowers on the nose. So much promise! That follows through onto the delicate palate that is clean, clear and pristine but just a bit clinical. I think it needs some sort of a flourish, especially after the hints of extravagance on the nose. I kept waiting for the penny to drop at this price, but it never got beyond just being ‘fine’. Maybe that’s just my preference for more width?

Best drinking: now, no hurry. 18/20, 93/100. Pommery website. 12.5%, $360. Would I buy it? I’d drink it, but not buy it at this price.