Matt Burton draws fruit from all over the countryside for the Gundog label and it helps deliver all sorts of oddities. This Gundog Estate Hilltops Shiraz No. 2 2021 comes from Boorowa in the Hilltops and gee it’s a breath of fresh air. Plump, despite the low alcohol, it has all sorts of earthen savouriness going on – mushroom bone broth over forest berries. A Pinot Noir lovers shiraz, complete with pan juices and a whisper of whole bunches then a mid weight, spice edged palate. It’s like a baby Cornas! Interest and flavour here. Quite an amazing wine really.

Best drinking: good now and for a decade no probs. 18/20, 93/100. 13%, $35. Gundog Estate website. Would I buy it? Well worth a bottle.