Last week we warmed up for 2023 with a collection of the wines that almost made it, a few more easy drinkers that did, and today we’re into the main course – the most serious wines of the year (so far). This Paisley Truntable GSM is a bargain too. Made in the typical luscious Paisley mode, this Barossan GMS is seriously ripe, and packed with dark plum fruit and chocolate bullet fruit and oak. How does Derek do this for $25? Mouthfilling dark fruit meets Bounty oak. Sure, it’s oak-forward, thick and warm to finish, yet that is very much the intention. This will win friends easily.

Best drinking: up to ten years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.7%, $25. Paisley Wines website. Would I buy it? Worth a glass or so.