It’s rare to see a modern Yarra Pinot Noir that is released too early, but that’s my call with this Oakridge 864 Henk Aqueduct Pinot Noir 2021. This top dog red is so dense, muscular and firm and comes part of a lineup of excellent 2021 Oakridge Pinot wines. Sure, there is still a bright core of raspberry fruit, but it comes couched in whole bunch influence on nose and palate, complete with sinewy tannins. It’s unquestionably high quality, but if you want seduction, this is a long way off (or you can try the 2021 Willowlake).

Best drinking: next year, maybe the year after. It’s a decade or more cellaring proposition. 18.5/20, 94/100+. 13.4%, $96. Oakridge website. Would I buy it? Not yet.