It’s that time again. Time to fill me in on what you’re currently drinking, what you want to drink, or what you have drunk in the last four weeks. And not just wine but beer, whisky, cocktails, sherry, everything.
I haven’t bought much lately because I’ve been working through an overflowing cellar instead. First-world problems, hand me the world’s tiniest violin etc. Amongst the bounty to come out of the WineArk cabinet, however, were these two seriously sensational white wines worth mentioning. A pair of charismatic and utterly delicious drinks that I would love to have more of…
The 2009 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon is another reminder that everyone should buy and drink more grand Hunter Semillon. There’s this unreal contrast in the middle-aged (10-20 year old) Sems that is so alluring – on the one hand, intense, powerful, sometimes uncompromising green apple lemon citrus fruit, all cached in shedloads of acidity, and taut in it lines. FRESHNESS! Overlaying the primary fruit and acidity comes a of secondary, bottle-aged interest. Toasted nuts, custard powder, lanolin, and just a little honey (but not honey sweetness). Combine the two in the same mouthful and BANG! You have a white wine that is satisfying in its freshness and low alcohol vitality, yet with multiple levels of flavour.
I’m a massive fan. I like the 09s too – a flattering vintage, ready to drink now, but with the perfect lines of a classic vintage. 09 was superb for Hunter Semillon (but problematic for reds due to rain), and it shows here. Ready to drink now, but also with decades left if you want to wait, the 2009 Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon is right up there. 96 points if we’re scoring (which I didn’t, I was drinking it).
For the second course, the 2019 Cobaw Ridge Chardonnay still felt tight and lean and lithe in that proud Macedon style. Yet, the extra coats of winemaking and ripe fruit gave this a bit more volume – well enough white peach creaminess to offset the typically sprightly acidity. This is a satisfying, tight-but-full-bodied white, with this nuanced, acid-framed style that would shame plenty of Chablis (for less dollars too). 95 points, all day long.
Meanwhile, there has been the usual flow of beer through the door, too. Plenty of Hawkers West Coast IPA (my house staple), more of the Eden Brewery range (I like the Argania Bock), a few Mountain Culture Status Quo Pale Ales and some super aromatic Hop Nation Paradise Valley Hotel WCIPA (which is still in the ‘like but not love’ bucket). Loved my last few cans of the Range Brewing White Lotus DDH IPA, though – a real highlight. Such precision and flavour! By contrast, the Range Brewing Frequently Asked Questions Cali IPA was the answer to any of my questions question. Flavourless, broad – I had to check the can to see if it was old. But it wasn’t – just underwhelming.
What about you? What have you been drinking?
17 Comments
Finding it hard to go past Grenache with such bbq weather of late. Rocks of Wisdom for the superb smashable style lunch wine and Aphelion’s single vineyard (all of them) for a bit slower early evening style Grenache. Beer, Bodriggy Utropia Pale Ale. Visited brewery in Abbortford in spring. Quality in venue and beer. Easy drinking, slightly tropical without leaning towards Malibu and pineapple.
That smashable Grenache style is a super summer wine. Grenache is possibly the most popular drinking red grape here at casa Graham. Pinot and Nebb for more seriousness.
Been getting into the 21 Ross Hill Pinnacle Cabernet Franc that I picked up on a recent trip to Orange. Super fragrant, super svelte from an apparently super tough vintage according to the ultra friendly cellar door team that looked after me.
Underrated highlight of the range. Love the Pinnacle Chardonnay too.
Some good hits and a few misses.
Hits – Benevelli Langhe Nebbiolo ’21 – meant to be a great vintage and this was great value. Need to stash a few away I think. Joyful drink but also good seriousness about structure/tannin profile.
Toppers’ Mountain Petit Manseng ’17 (I think it’s actually Gros Manseng) – very different but fun and good length too.
Oh and Fratelli Alessandria’s Pelaverga – so refreshing and tasty with good breadth of flavour and length, great summer wine.
Misses – a few (young) corked wines that’s made me a bit skittish of the producers, Castagna Riesling (too salty/savoury for me), Punch Chardonnay ’17 – perfectly varietal and nto a bad wine but just 0 x-factor, was hoping for more I guess?
There is still some 2015 Benevello Barolo floating around that promises much joy for the price.
Some chardonnay spoils have been the highlight. 2016 Penfolds Reserve Bin A, 2021 Toldpuddle and 2019 Serrat the picks. On the riesling front, a 2010 McNicol from Mitchell continued its position as fave aged riesling
Last time I had the Tolpuddle it looked unready. Glad it’s in a better place
Over the last couple of weeks, two wines that really stood out for me:
Crawford River Reserve Riesling 2015: just a magic wine, drinking beautifully now but feels like it will last forever. reminds me of some of the Dry German GG Rieslings.
Thomas Braemore Semillon 2013: drinking superbly at 10 years of age and, again, feels like it will go on for years. A wonderful, light toasty nose that you don’t see in many modern Semillons.
I haven’t had the 2015. Not surprised – always bloody good
My highlight of the year was a Tyson S classic lunch – Tattinger en Magnum at Montrachet. The Comtes were OUT_STAND_ING (not magnum)
What vintage was it? Has been an age since I’ve had one – McWilliams used to serve it when they imported Taittinger.
One of my last bottles of the absurdly good 2021 Limefinger Polish Hill River Riesling, bought on the basis of your review, probably more Australian rums than is sensible and, from your neck of the woods, the Freshie Pils from Freshwater Brewing. I always thought it would be a cold day in hell before I ever bought a Lager but here were are, an awesome summer beer !
The 2022 Limefinger Polish is pretty handy also, opened this week!
Been drinking the Dom Naturaliste ‘Discovery Syrah 2019 which is excellent. Mixed spices & dark perfumed cherries.
Also had the 2021 Weathercraft Chardonnay and at $40 is a steal..
Hiya Andrew,
When GFisher mentioned Crawford River Reserve Riesling 2015 (Crawford is just down the track from here) I just had to give another “Local” a plug: Bochara Pinot 2019. Sensational aromatics, super deep colour, long & so so tasty. I know that Martin Slocombe who made it is very happy with his efforts. Anyway the 6 we bought pre Christmas is down to 1 already. 🙂
Thanks for you time Andrew.
Did a long Provencal lunch to payback a few friends. All cold food to make prep easier.
NV Billecart Saumon rose
2016 Mordoree Tavel rose
2017 Hans Herzog Chardonnay
2019 Izway Maurice Grenache
2010 Simian CDP Les Grandes Grenachieres
2002 Torbreck Neck Oil
2012 Izway Don
2016 Domaine des Bernadins Beaume de Venise
Very enjoyable afternoon – reds were all magnificent.