A ChardoMay Margaret River Chardonnay sub-regional tasting

We don’t talk about Margaret River sub-regions all that much in Australian wine.

That’s perhaps because, outside of Wilyabrup, the different areas don’t have dominant identities. Sure, it could just be my east-coaster ignorance, but who can name what defines Karridale vs Wallcliffe wines?

What does make a huge difference in this coastal focussed wine region is latitude. As any visitor to ‘Margs’ would have realised, the northern end around Dunsborough can feel like a different, much more warm and sunny part of the world compared to the wind-buffeted chilliness of Augusta in the south. The wind is an important delimiter here on that tangent, where some of the southern exposed vineyards close to the coast can be harvested weeks after warmer, more sheltered blocks.

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There are also differences in altitude, though the difference between the highest and the lowest vineyards isn’t quite as profound as aspect.

Anyway, I’m rambling, and instead should be talking about a super strong bracket of Chardonnay!

Organised by Howard Park (or more correctly, the ever-restless Brian Chase Olson of Blend PR), this tasting held virtually a few nights ago was intended to showcase the sub-regional differences in Margaret River Chardonnay, taking four different wines from different parts of the region.

Of course, I was in single-dad mode with Mrs ozwinereview out on a work trip and my small child intent on hanging off me rather than letting daddy listen to the winemakers talking about their Chardonnay clones. As a result, I could only listen in and pick up tidbits in passing, missing an ocean full of detail about what is four wines of quite some pedigree.

More than pedigree, these are the sort of wines I enjoyed drinking – Chardonnay of volume but also aciidty, feeling balanced and intense. Undoubtedly the highest quality bracket of Chardonnay May so far, even if the differences here more about site, vintage and winemaking choices rather than anything sub-regional.

Let’s take a look at the wines, eh?

Bits in italics are winemakers notes and context, my notes on the wines below that.

Windows Estate Petit Lot Chardonnay 2021

Windows is a regeneratively farmed block at Yallingup run by Chris & Joanne Davies. From two blocks and four clones of Chardonnay, certified organic vineyard since 2019. Wild ferment in clay (10%) and oak, 50% new and 50% one year old for 11 months. Half went through malo. TA 7.7g/L, pH 3.14.

Man this is revelatory. I haven’t had a Windows Estate wine in ages, and this seemed on a whole other tier of interest. I want to try more from this rather small (for Margaret River) estate. This Chardonnay smells expressive, more than the low alc would suggest, with this high toned nose of white flowers and freshness and some background white fruit. The palate is the real clincher – it’s so concentrated, with this stonefruit punch through the middle that seems outrageous for 12% alcohol. That palate is filigreed and beautiful, with this perfect lean but not ungenerous palate lifted up by finessed oak. I came back at the end and this Chardonnay still seemed more special. Wowsers. 18.7/20, 95/100. 12%, $64.

Trait Wines Margaret River Chardonnay 2021

Theo Trayt & wife Clare farm a 2.7ha close planted block in Walcliffe fruit planted in 1988 that is all Gin Gin clone. Interestingly Theo worked at Pierro for a while, then used their house deposit to buy this vineyard which was run down and going cheap. This Chardonnay is barrel fermented and matured in 1/3rd new oak. Wild ferment and full malo. 2021 was so cool that Theo Truyts decided it needed full malo. Just 3.5t of Chardonnay, with the whole block just giving 9-15 tonnes. 11 months in oak. TA 7.6g/L, pH 3.2.

More closed and grapefruity – hello Gin Gin! Waxy edges. It feels less high-toned than the Windows, more full and chunky for what is a lean wine. I like that generosity – it feels just right. Swap out the peach for a little nectarine. You can see the malo and, interestingly, a bit more oak on the finish and it all gives carefully contained generosity. A lovely ‘essence of Margaret River Chardonnay’ to the nose and palate. Another really smart wine that I’d want to drink – and a name to watch. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13%, $89.

Howard Park Chardonnay 2022

From the Allingham Vineyard in Karridale. Howard Park now has a selection of blocks in Margs, but this one is championed for Chardonnay. The blend includes 3% Wilyabrup Chardonnay. Nick Bowen sees some ‘Asian citrus’ in this which I like. 2022 was a much riper vintage too. A mix of Gin Gin and Dijon clones for this Chardonnay. Wild fermented and matured in barrel – 30% new – for 10 months. TA 5.5g/L pH 3.25.

At a disadvantage because of its youth. More banana esters on the nose too. There is clearly potential here but it feels formative and closed save for the banana cream. Nice contrast between plump fruit and a fresh finish, but this felt like a more simple wine in this context. Wait. 17.7/20, 92/100+. 12.5%, $60.

McHenry Hohnen Laterite Hills Chardonnay 2021

From Karridale fruit, circa 500-600 cases made of this wine every year. It’s a blend from across four vineyards. Wild fermented in barrel, 25% new and matured for 10 months in oak. Malo is a decision based on the season. For 2021 it was sulphured late to encourage more malo. Emphasis for this wine is about expression rather than oak (or anything else).

This feels different. Closed nose, and it’s a brooding, tight and acid-shaped wine. Some intriguing green melon and ginger, but it’s a savoury and acidic Chardonnay rather than something defined by fruit. Nice wine this, and only makes me want to try the single vineyard 2021s. 18/20, 93/100. 12.9%, $45.