Yesterday, I was scurrilously complaining about underripe and underwhelming Chardonnay. 24 hours later and Ngeringa delivers a soothing, wonderfully layered ChardoMay highlight.

It’s easy to equate the romance of biodynamic viticulture with character in any wine, but I couldn’t shake the idea that this Ngeringa Summit Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 feels alive. It’s a lo-fi, high-texture white with these cascading shades of golden waxy yellow fruit, then mealy lees and oak, all overlapping in a baked apple (with fresh cream) embrace of flavour. There’s this compact core of nectarine fruit that is so attractive and right and proper. While it threatens to get too rich and wild, there is enough acidity to keep the whole carriage of flavour in shape.

A lovely, full-tilt Chardonnay in a mode that will have everyone reaching for the best in lo-fi Bourgogne to compare. Yum, that’s the best way to describe it. Best drinking: now. 18.7/20, 95/100. 13.2%, $70. Ngeringa website. Would I buy it? Yes.