The Viognier tide has turned. Kind of. I can’t think of a time when I’ve had so many drinkable Australian Viognier lob up on the doorstep than 2023, with more hits than misses. The year of the V-weed. What has changed? What am I missing? This Briar Ridge Limited Release Viognier 2022 is a winner too.

Wrattonbully fruit here and barrel fermented. A viscous thing it is, too, with that SPC apricots in juice mode activated, though the finish is pretty tart too. Flavour? Yeah, it’s there, and creamy edges too. Maybe a bit short to finish, but all the Viognier ducks in a row.

Best drinking: good now, no hurry really. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.5%, $35. Briar Ridge website. Would I buy it? Worth several glasses.