The only challenge with the Thomas Wines Kiss Shiraz 2021 is that it’s too young. Andrew ‘Thommo’ Thomas has dialled back Kiss a little in recent years, and I like the difference. Still sourced from the Pokolbin Estate Vineyard (planted in 1969). Only 22% new oak as well, and indeed it feels less overt. Sure, this is still a bold and purple fruited Hunter red, but it’s more medium and less ‘is this from South Australia?’.

Indeed a little of the Hunter River Burgundy earth and red fruit for 2021, with less gloss and more poised purple plum openness. It will take a while to resolve with a slightly tangy finish, but I like the flow so much. Such obvious appeal and character.

Best drinking: three to five years would be a great starting point. It will live for decades. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.7%, $90. Thomas Wines website. Would I buy it? One for the cellar, thanks.