Review: Crittenden The Zumma Pinot Noir 2021. A catwalk model Mornington Pinot.

This is effectively the top of the Crittenden range and another lovely, lithe Pinot from this Mornington stalwart. I’d like a bit more ripeness, but the delicacy is undeniable. Light ruby colour, the nose is all just-ripe fruit, with sappy tomato juice and raspberry. It’s all very correct and classy, if a bit lean. A lean palate, too, with a little mintiness and the feeling that you can see the bones. High cheekbones, but a little skinny. Still, the licoricey red fruit beauty and finesse makes for intriguing and undeniably attractive wine.

Best drinking: over the next five years. 18/20, 93/100. 12.5%, $65. Crittenden website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.