Another exhibit for why the best Hewitson reds are the affordable ones. This Hewitson Miss Harry GSM 2022 includes 50% whole bunches and matured for 10 months in older oak. It all works so nicely too, with lovely red jube open fruit that signals it as definitely Grenache dominant (in the right way). Real Beaujolais vibes (hello carbonic maceration) here, with skins, red licorice fruit aplenty, but with proper Barossan heft. Open, easy, substantial and with just a little vein of stalkiness to give tannin structure, this is exactly what a $30 Barossan GSM should taste like.

Best drinking: now and for five or more years, easy. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $30. Hewitson website. Would I buy it? A few glasses.