The essential appeal of this Serafino Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 is the hearty, rough-edged charm. It’s a woodsman of wine with raw hands, an arm-wrenching handshake and a love of ice-cold tinnies at the end of the day.

A huge wall of tannins defines this McLaren Vale red. Hearty flavours, dark minty Cabernet character and punch! Minty firmness, but so varietal. Great tannin and flavour length, too – it goes for an age. It will live and provide full-bodied fun for years, even if it’s a little raw and acidic. Excellent price too.

Best drinking: you could go now, but the best years are five away at least. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.5%, $35. Serafino website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.