This is Eden Valley Syrah done with a sense of freshness. Fermented in old milk vats, and given a short stint in used oak, the Torzi Matthews Francesca Grillo Collina Calcarea Syrah 2022 has such an enjoyable, unforced silken nature.

Dark berries, cocoa butter, and plums in among the dark berries. Elegant, refined, silken. Maybe not powerful in the classic sense, but such a lovely drink. Fine tannins cap it all off wonderfully.

So good, so lively, and never lacking in actual flavour. Best drinking: soonish. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $38. Torzi Matthews website. Would I buy it? Sure would.