Old school South Australian style red, but with the depth to carry it all off. That’s the gist of this, Taylors Jaraman Shiraz 2021. A blend of Clare Valley & McLaren Vale fruit for this big, purple plum style in a lavish, oak-enriched, and classic mode. No alarms, no surprises, and plenty of flavour. The acid pokes outit’sd it’s anything but subtle, but there is a place for these big, plum-fruited, expansive and intense reds.

Best drinking: now and over the next decade for a start. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.5%, $34. Taylors website. Would I buy it? A glass.