Lots of Barossan pleasure in the Hewitson range, particularly at the affordable end. Bold and proudly Barossan But the more premium wines so often end up a bit oaky and overdone.

This Hewitson Mother Vine Monopole Shiraz 2020 is a perfect example.

From a single block in the Barossa, with Shiraz derived from an ancient clone found in the 170-year-old Old Garden Vineyard. I still find that a bit of a laboured USP – the Barossa is full of vines taken from old clone cuttings. Anyway, this Shiraz comes in a gigantic bottle, and only fitting that it’s swamped by chocolate oak. You can’t see anything beyond it. Caramel, oak chips. The fruit itself is forward and looks more dried out than it should, even though it hints at quality and intensity through the middle. Then the oak tannins kick in on the finish too.

That fruit has been massacred imo.

Best drinking: now. 16/20, 87/100. 14%, $150. Would I buy it? No.