Melee is an excellent word. Especially with the array of accents. I wouldn’t call this red a melee, though, just unconventional. And Paulmara is a Barossan producer making well-priced, bold reds in the proud western Barossan tradition. This Paulmara Estate The Mêlée Sangiovese Shiraz Malbec 2021 is more Barossan than anything else, with purple fruit aplenty. Heavy bottle too. Oh, and the Malbec? From Langhorne Creeek, just for shits and giggles. There’s is this blackness and ripeness to the nose that is pure Barossa Valley, in an old school, early noughties way, with a slightly tart palate of very ripe fruit with blackberry pie volume and plenty of rich oak rather than definition. It’s just a warm-hearted Barosan red of solid appeal at a great price.

Best drinking: now to ten years plus. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.5%, $25. Paulmara website. Would I buy it? Worth a glass or so.