There’s a bit of variability in the Clandestine Vineyards range, which you’d expect given that there is a range of winemakers and growers all involved in the wines. But the highlights are pretty impressive. This Clandestine Vineyards Malbec 2021 comes from a single vineyard in Wilyabrup. Not enough varietal Malbec in Margs, but there is potential here. This feels nicely varietal too – mulberry, cinnamon, licorice and something tarry. It’s edging towards overripeness, despite being medium weight, with flavour depth in a sweet and tarry sort of furry form. Handy drink.

Best drinking: I’d drink over the next five to eight years. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.5%, $35. Clandestine Vineyards website. Would I buy it? A glass or two.