There is some glorious fruit at the core of the Hewitson Old Garden Mourvedre 2020. Pity it’s been overcooked in the winery. Sourced from a treasured plot of ancient Barossa vines planted in 1853. 70% whole bunches in the mix, the whole lot matured for 20 months in new French oak. Super oaky dark berry fruit covered in milk chocolate oak. Has some lovely blackness underneath, but gee it’s oaky – blocky and oaky. It squeaks into a silver, but this should be a gold medal wine.

Best drinking: time will help integrate the oak. Come back in 2-3 years, then drink for over a decade or more. 17/20, 90/100. 14%, $90. Hewitson website. Would I buy it? No.