Tried one of the Worlds Apart wines yet? Well worth your time. They don’t always work, but such thought, playfulness and interest here. Even the names are fun. This Worlds Apart Wines Grown On Sand Grenache 2022 showcases the modern McLaren Vale Grenache form that is so appealing, too, with brightness and light at every corner.

All Blewitt Springs fruit here (from a vineyard at Moritz Road & the Brini Vineyard), hence the ‘grown on sand’ bit, with plenty of vineyards up in that part of the world doing a fair impression of the back of a dune (a great soil profile here). This Grenache is a bright thing, too, with lightly jubey fruit and a ‘red wine gum’ carbonic juiciness and then this late flourish of meaty tannin spice. Lovely wine it is too. Energy, sandpaper tannins, the lot. It’s just a little light in some moments, but the detail is there. I like it.

Best drinking: good now and for a bunch of years yet (but I’d just drink it now). 18/20, 93/100. 13%, $40. Worlds Apart Wines website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle.