It’s interesting to see how golden, peaches-in-juice style Chardonnay is making a comeback, and the Great Southern wines from Apricus Hill are always a bit richer and fuller. This Apricus Hill Chardonnay 2022 is all mid-palate ripe fruit richness, with restricted malo on the finish keeping things tight enough. Sunny style and done well. It’s a smidgen obvious but a good balance between peachy fruit with a streak of butter and then grapefruit acidity.

Best drinking: soonish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13.5%, $40. Apricus Hill website (buy through Single Vineyard Sellers). Would I buy it? A few glasses.