I really enjoyed the Thomas Chardonnay from Mayfield and this isn’t far behind. A differently shaped wine, though – leaner, more acid-driven, and less obviously enjoyable. Indeed, the Mayfield Vineyard Block 14 Chardonnay 2022 is a bejewelled and refreshing white in a grapefruity and tight mode. One angle makes this look a bit lean, and the oak sits on top like a dollop of vanilla artifice. A polished core at the core, though. There is promise here – the tight and frisky palate attests to that. But for now, it’s just a very tight Orange Chardonnay.

Best drinking: later. Give it a few years and it will drink well for more than five years. 17.7/20, 92/100+. 12.5%, $65. Mayfield Vineyard website. Would I buy it? A few glasses.