Theoretically, this is the second-tier wine behind the Masters Series I just reviewed, but gee there isn’t much in it at all. Maybe a smidgen less detail here but it’s not half the wine. Custard powder, some leesy nuances and marzipan. Still has that finessed grapefruit mode and clearly classy winemaking of the fancier wine too. Another vital and lively white, though perhaps missing a little stuffing through the finish. Genuinely enjoyable modern Adelaide Hills Chardonnay.

Best drinking: over the next five years for starters. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13%, $40. Saint & Scholer website. Would I buy it? Let’s share a bottle for starters.