Saint & Scholar is the ‘passion project’ from Stephen Dew & Reid Bosward (of Kaesler fame) based around 49ha of vineyards in the Adelaide Hills. There’s lots of whimsy in the range, too (and plenty of decent wines), and this Saint & Scholar The Master Series Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2021 is the top dog single-block release.

It’s a clever wine, too, with a cool and poised sense of sophistication, kicking off with a green fruit nose of grapefruit and just-ripe white peach and a little biscuity funk. We’re in modern Hills Chardonnay country, Toto! The expressive palate is excellent – coiffed, with just enough whipped butter with just ripe fruit. Sophisticated, though a little clinical too. Ultimately I like it, even if the vineyard transparency isn’t there for this pricepoint.

Best drinking: over the next five to eight years. 18/20, 93/100. 12.5%, $80. Saint & Scholar website. Would I buy it? Worth a glass or two.