I really like the unadorned charisma of the World Apart Wines range. Personality in droves.

Here, it’s McLaren Vale Shiraz but with nouveau leanings. Fruit comes from the Leask family’s Hillenvale Vineyard at Kangarilla. 60% whole bunches and spends 3 months in oak. Bright purple, the notes say morello cherry, and I’m not disagreeing. This is so plump and open and vibrant – very much Beaujolais-meets-Vale-Syrah, complete with some whole berry confection. But it’s not confected – it’s a well-contained, juicy-yet-not-sweet, crisp light red of immediate appeal. Yes yes. Great drinking wine and the late bunchy spice just gives it shape. Good work.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: Nowish
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 12.9
• RRP (in $AUD): 32
• Winery website: https://www.worldsapartwines.com/
• Would I buy it?: Sure would