Nic Bowen is doing very good things at Howard Park, as I talked about here. This Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2022 is the best of the new releases, and a pleasure to take another look. The nutty, creamy worked nose is a real tour de force of winemaking inputs – lees, a little sulphide funk and oak richness, adding golden layers over a palate of tangy Margs Chard grapefruit. Last time, I was less enamoured with the full-tilt kitchen sink nose, but viewing it over a longer period, it looked more interesting than overt. Underneath, it’s a pretty sophisticated wine with the palate crisp and showing such even-handed form. Arguably, it’s too taut and too perfect, but the overriding impression is simply of a high-class modern Margaret River Chardonnay.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now to ten years (this will live)
• Score (out of 20): 18.5
• Score (out of 100): 94
• Alcohol %: 12.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 97
• Winery website: https://www.howardparkwines.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: sure would, though it’s not exactly cheap