Review: Howard Park Leston & Scotsdale 2019s (and an aged Riesling)

Stylewise, there’s change afoot in the Howard Park world. As I detailed in this post, Nic Bowen is brightening up the whole winery mode – you only need to look at the spicy 2022 Scotsdale Shiraz for reference of how shiny the new wines are.

Meanwhile, the 2019 Margaret River & Great Southern single vineyard Howard Park wines are out at the moment (available on the Howard Park website), and they’re substantial. More than substantial, they’re proper regional styles.

Let’s have a squizz:

Howard Park Scotsdale Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Carrying the trend for the best Howard Park reds to be Great Southern sources, and this is lovely. There’s this choc mint expanse through the middle that is pure Great Southern. Mushroomy, luscious, dark fruits but never bold – just expansively textural with these chocolatey tannins and a savoury, choc mint evenness that is irrepressible. It could even be Cab Shiraz with that expansive middle. I like.

Best drinking: now and for a decade, likely two. 18.5/20, 94/100. 14.5%, $40. Would I buy it? Sure would.

Howard Park Leston Shiraz 2019

Margaret River Shiraz rarely moves me – it’s Cabernet and Chardonnay country, with some fumé-style Sem/Sauv for good measure. Especially Wilyabrup, where this Leston comes from. But hey, when Margs Shiraz is on, it’s an olive-drenched pleasure. This Leston has all the cues, with fruit that is still purple four years after harvest with a purple cooking plum roundness and then flecks of mint and roast lamb. We’re in proper cool clime Shiraz territory, and none of the weedy astringency that dogs Margaret River Shiraz. Actually, the ripeness of the tannins is part of the deal, that and the hearty, yet mint-flecked, ‘we’re going all in on flavour’ palate too. A good Leston, with a heart and soul.

Best drinking: now and for a decade, easy. 18/20, 93/100. 14.5%, $40, Would I buy it? Yes.

Howard Park Leston Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Also fruit from the Leston Vineyard, and this is a dusty minty Margs red. Those drying, mint-edged, grey chocolatey tannins are a bit gruff, but it has some power, all dusty dark berry fruit and blockish thick-grained tannins with a warming edge. My score will look a bit mean in time when it all comes together.

Best drinking: later. Give it five years. 17.7/20, 92/100. 14.5%, $40. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.

Howard Park Museum Release Riesling 2017

More forward than I expected, looking closer to the 2014 in style and progress. That’s not a bad thing, as both have volume and length. Toast, honey and a little petro-TDN on the nose, then a flourish of cooked limes, but the palate is a bit clinical to finish – drying and abrupt. It’s long, though, so probably worth a wait.

Best drinking: come back later. 17.5/20, 91/100. 12%, $40. Would I buy it? Just a glass.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now and for a decade easy
• Score (out of 20): 18
• Score (out of 100): 93
• Alcohol %: 14.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 40
• Winery website: https://www.burchfamilywines.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: Yes I would