After years of Australian Chardonnay becoming ever leaner, it’s such a pleasure to see a bit more sunshine and richness creeping into the national style. You can see that tension here in this Longview Macclesfield Chardonnay 2022, which feels quite generous, despite a palate that underneath is still tight and lean. Yellow peach, a line of vanilla bean, but then it kicks to grapefruit and citrus punch to finish. Maybe an each-way bet, but the result is enjoyable modern Adelaide Hills Chardonnay.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: next five years.
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 13
• RRP (in $AUD): 45
• Winery website: https://www.longviewvineyard.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a few glasses.