Plenty of variability in the Clandestine Vineyards range, from the absolute bargains to a whole lot of Almost Club wines. But this Hearts & Minds Cabernet Malbec 2021 is bang on target. Great fruit helps, with the juice for this red coming from the Acacia Ridge Vineyard in Frankland River & Celestial Bay in Margaret River. Nicceee. Matured in 25% new oak, the rest one and two-year-old wood for a huge 20 months in oak. The varietal stamp here is strong. Cedary coffee oak plays a part, but so do the acres of dark berry fruit and the distinct red berry Malbec mid-palate. Gravelly tannins that feel so right, the package threatening to be too dark fruited and hulking, yet pulled back by a savouriness. Big time WA wine right here.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now and for a decade no probs
• Score (out of 20): 18.5
• Score (out of 100): 94
• Alcohol %: 14.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 60
• Winery website: https://clandestinevineyards.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: let’s share a bottle