The Almost Club Feb 2024 edition – 11 wines that almost made it this month

Not all wines can be great. Plenty are just ‘ok drinks’, and some are just bad…

Here is a collection of 11 wines that almost made it in February 2024.

Colmar Estate Block 1 Pinot Noir 2022

Ambitious but ultimately disjointed Orange Pinot. I liked the other wine, but this feels curiously lumpy. Light colours – a ruby orange. It smells of sweet strawberry and jam, with just a little bacon. The palate is ripe, syrupy, sweet and yet pointy. It’s seriously intended but feels disjointed, instantly warm and yet raspy and bitter, too. So much ambition but not quite the balance. Best drinking: nowish before it dries out. 16.8/20, 89/100. 13.5%, $65.

Taylors Estate Label Shiraz 2021

The original Taylors Shiraz, if you like, and festooned with gold medals, but what is more notable is the Limestone Coast on the front label – the Taylors ‘Estate’ is really just anywhere now. This is a historic Clare Valley wine, I guess, so it’s a notable change to have no Clare fruit in the blend. That said, I don’t think the Limestone Coast fruit choice hurts this at all – purple-red fruit, all rich and chunky with smudgy edges, plenty of mid-palate ripe fruit generosity and a slightly tart, hearty finish. Plenty substantial for the dollars, even if it’s rough-edged and the fruit is all mid-palate rather than driving length. Pay $16, and this is more than fine (if clumsy). Best drinking: now or over the next five years, easy. 16.8/20, 89/100. 14.5%, $22.

Tin Shed Melting Pot Shiraz 2021

Thick, confected, and slightly desiccated Barossan red with heavyweight plum fruit and a swishy sort of alcohol warmth. It’s a bit too much, despite the power and depth making a compelling case. Less would be more. Best drinking: sooner before it dries out. 16.8/20, 89/100. 15%, $32.

Attwoods Vin de Folie Rouge 2023

This is Troy’s vin de soif. A quaffing Victorian lo-fi red and plenty red fruited, in a sloshy sort of indistinct style, with gentle fruit, plenty of acidity, and an easy drinking appeal. Affable enough, although not ‘drink by the bucketload’ as it’s just a bit pointy. Best drinking: now. 16.5/20, 88/100. 13%, $45.

Paisley Velvet Grenache 2023

It’s tricky crafting riper-styled Grenache styles as sometimes the ripeness overwhelms the fruit. This is light ruby coloured and never feels dense, but alcohol is a dominant force, starting as the first aroma before a palate that wanders into cooked fruit, and despite the freshness on the finish, it stays a hot wine. There is some great red lolly Grenache fruit here, but I can’t get past the warmth. Best drinking: now. 16.5/20, 88/100. 14.5%, $30.

Rowlee Single Vineyard Arneis 2023

Orange region fruit here, but it’s hard to pick a variety; it’s just acidic white wine. Maybe a little pear stone fruit, but lean. It’s a little forward as you look closer. It’s ok as a simple, crisp white wine, but completely indistinct. Best drinking: now. 16.5/20, 88/100. 12.6%, $38.

Silkwood Estate The Bowers Chardonnay 2021

Rather forward and buttery ‘Pembo’ wine this – dusty golden Sao biscuity richness, then a slightly sweet and sour palate that looks stodgy and wears the oak tannins. There is plenty of flavour, though, that will please the ‘give me more buttery Chardonnay’ crowd, but the palate is a phenolic, sweet/sour/rich jumble that grates a bit. Well priced though. Best drinking: nowish. 16.5/20, 88/100. 13.5%, $25.

Taylors Estate Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

Limestone Coast and Clare fruit here, and this feels more classical. Loaded with medals, but not one locally. Minty to the max, all eucalypt expression, which is what makes this a bit divisive. Also, surprisingly medium-bodied, this doesn’t have much fruit, but it does have eucalypt. There’s a firm handshake to finish, but definitely less substantial than the traditional (and well-loved) Taylors ‘Estate’ Cabernet. Best drinking: it will go for a decade. 16.5/20, 88/100. 14.5, $22.

Taylors Estate Label Pinot Noir 2023

Limestone Coast Adelaide Hills also counts as the Taylors Estate eh? An affable light red, with red cordial raspberry fruit and an easy, gentle personality. No tannins, simple fruit and a bit short. It’s more than pleasant if you pay the $15.99 retail price (but not much stuffing or anything beyond raspberry juice for more). Best drinking: now. 16.5/20, 88/100. 13%, $22.

The Little Wine Company Sangiovese 2021

Leathery, soapy and jaunty Hunter Valley Sangio that feels awkward and tannic and hearty. There’s some proper varietal dark berry fruit, but the acidity and the tannins never match up. Best drinking: it will get better with 2-3 years in bottle. 16.3/20, 87/100. 13.5%, $36.

The Little Wine Company Pinot Grigio 2023

Central Ranges fruit for this release. A surprisingly flat, cardboardy thing with underripe pear fruit and a flat palate. Forward too. This feels strangely underdone, especially for Little Wine Co (a label that can deliver some lovely generous whites). Best drinking: now. 16/20, 87/100. 11.4% $30