Riojan deliciousness: Jose Gil Rioja Vino de Pueblo San Vicente 2021

This Jose Gil Rioja Vino de Pueblo San Vicente 2021 is a wonderful wine, but also one to remind that Rioja is a strange region.

Here’s a famed Spanish area, with a storied winemaking history, where the whole idea of vineyard and regional expression is pretty much glossed over. In a world where even Champagne – for so long a viticultureal (and literal) wasteland – has crus and named vineyards, while Rioja just has famous brands and ginormous barrel halls. It’s even weirder when you think that Rioja is powered by the fruit from a patchwork of circa 14,000 growers – it’s more like Burgundy, yet with sub-regions based as much on politics than place.

It’s not like Rioja doesn’t feel like special. It’s been a decade since I’ve been there (Logroño alone is worth the trip. Great tapas bars), and it’s a beautiful region where the small plots and varied terroir felt like Barolo, not the home of supermarket Tempranillo. There are even snow-capped mountains ringing the region, just for visual effect.

But the wines? Still more about oak and winemaking than a sense of celebrating place, despite everything you’ve heard about the ‘new Rioja;. And it’s frustrating as hell.

Anyway, digression over, let’s talk about this Jose Gil release. For starters, it’s made by José Gil, who is a young grower/winemaker out to make out a stamp, making small batch wines that celebrate villages and vineyards. This red, from vines surrounding the village of San Vicente de la Sonsierrain in the higher Rioja Alta subregion, celebrates old bush vines and classic styles, with Tempranillo, Garnacha & Viura in the blend. Matured in old oak and concrete, it feels so different to the vanilla and milk chocolate wines that is the Riojan trademark – instead this is mid weight, lucid, juicy and finessed. It smells of purple juice, pan juices, coal dust and licorice, the mode more like classic northern Rhone Syrah than oaky Riojan Temp. The tannins are there, they’re finessed, and they’re fine.

Sexy.

Mineral is a terrible, lazy word, but this is a minerally red. It’s bony, black, slightly bitter and utterly compelling anti-Rioja that I aloty with a bony dark leaf bitterness. It’s maybe a little too mid weight, but heck, you try not to drink it. Why isn’t more Rioja like this?

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: good now and for another decade
• Score (out of 20): 18.5
• Score (out of 100): 94
• Alcohol %: 13.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 110
• Winery website:
• Would I buy it?: shit yes