The Family Selection range is the fancy end of the Zema Estate range, although, at just $50, it’s not a fancy price. Indeed, it’s mad that a current release, six-year-old Coonawarra red, is $50, too. is even more remarkable when you think about it, given that, on average, it costs a few dollars per bottle per year just to store the stuff in bottle. A dense, old-school, powerful Coonawarra red it is, too, with proper dark dusty berries, some spearmint Cabernet charisma, coffee oak, caramel and leather. There’s a rough edge of tannin and alcohol and acidity, but that also jams rams home that this is an unapologetically full-bodied and substantial red in the meat-and-potatoes Coonawarra mode.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now and for another decade easy
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 12.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 46
• Winery website: https://www.zema.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: A glass or two