It’s time to check in with an old friend. Or at least an echo.

Orlando’s St Helga Riesling was one of the wines I coveted in 2000 as a wide-eyed 19-year-old who discovered the greatness of Riesling.

Now, I don’t think St Helga exists anymore, and most of the old Orlando wines now either have a Jacobs Creek or St Hugo name attached to them. But the spirit clearly lives on in this St Hugo Riesling 2023.

What is grand about this wine is the intensity – it’s a powerhouse. Thundering licks of big-time grapefruit and lime, with an Eden Valley stony talc accent. It’s only 12% alcohol, but muscular, and with muscular acidity too. It’s almost too intense, a little sour, then long and limey to finish.

Hello, old friend, it’s nice to see you.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now and for decades
• Score (out of 20): 18.5
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 12
• RRP (in $AUD): 40
• Winery website: https://www.sthugo.com/
• Would I buy it?: Sure would