We’re on a Hilltops day, so why not parlay into one of the region’s oft-overlooked heroes? The Freeman family’s vineyard at Prunevale is a hotbed of innovation and alternate varietal fascination, with an absolute smorgasbord of different grapes (including a few rows of absolute oddities). Fiano is a more recent addition – this is just the second vintage – but it’s already high quality. From the Altura Vineyard, it’s a proper golden yellow Fiano that feels more like a better Italian version than some of the half-baked local wines I’ve stated lately. It’s ripe, with a leesy, nutty golden honey lemon flavour expanse. It is quite concentrated, lemony, and tangerine-y with a firm, pithy orange finish. Autentico!

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: nowish
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 13.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 32
• Winery website: https://www.freemanvineyards.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: worth a few glasses