Very light, herbal and yet pretty whole bunchy Macedon Ranges Gamay from the chilly Lyons Will site. It smells of mushrooms and cherry fruit, truffles and, again, the hoppy, herbal edge. The bunchy character is a bit too much for such a delicate flavour, but crunchy and enjoyable enough if a little underripe.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: nowish
• Score (out of 20): 17
• Score (out of 100): 90
• Alcohol %: 11.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 47
• Winery website: https://www.lyonswillestate.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a glass