McLaren Vale Riesling is deadly uncool/an oddity, but this d’Arenberg The Dry Dam Riesling 2023 is sneakily good. It’s an awful lot of wine for $22, if unsubtle, with broad-brushed juicy green/red apple, preserved lemon, and just a little sweetness, with most of it in the mid-palate. Flavour? Plenty thanks. It’s not varietal and hardly a classic South Aussie ‘Bickford and acid’ style, but it’s both intense and long. Don’t underestimate it.
- Best drinking: now. But this will last if history is a guide
- Score (out of 20): 17
- Score (out of 100): 90
- Alcohol %: 10.5
- RRP (in $AUD): 22
- Winery website: https://www.darenberg.com.au/
- Would I buy it?: a glass, ice cold





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